Hi/Salut.

Everyone needs a bit of mental legroom. 

This site is for distracted minds discovering the outer (and inner) worlds. 

Leg Room List #3: Modena

Leg Room List #3: Modena

Leg Room List (LRL) – a place to add crowd-sourced recommendations from locals and my own personal travels. A living and constantly breathing list that made the big hop from iPhone Notes to this website. PS: your thoughts as locals or adoptive denizens are gold – please share.

A charming Italian town, home to the best food (and cars) in the world. 

 

To stay

B&B Quartopianno
Vittorio Veneto 25
Emilia Suites
Stella 21
(Outside Modena) Casa Maria Luigia - owned by Massimo Bottura from Osteria Francescana

B&B Quartopianno kitchen

B&B Quartopianno kitchen

B&B Quartopianno bathroom

B&B Quartopianno bathroom

B&B Quartopianno bedroom

B&B Quartopianno bedroom

B&B Quartopianno living room

B&B Quartopianno living room

Emilia Suites

Emilia Suites

Vittorio Veneto 25

Vittorio Veneto 25

To eat

Michelin Star
Osteria Francescana - #2 restaurant in the world in 2017; check out Chef's Table episode
Strada Facendo
Antica Moka

Osteria Francescana

Osteria Francescana

Osteria Francescana

Osteria Francescana

Osteria Francescana - "Apple"

Osteria Francescana - "Apple"

Osteria Francescana - "Oops, I dropped the lemon tart!"

Osteria Francescana - "Oops, I dropped the lemon tart!"

Local and good
Osteria Giusti – only 4 tables, lunch only, book ahead
Trattoria Aldina – dinner only on weekends
Osteria Ermes – lunch only (closed for summer 2017)
Franceschetta58 – sister (and more accessible) restaurant of Osteria Francescana; casual bistro; email to book
La Bianca - very local, where Massimo Bottura apparently goes in his free time
Erasmo – pizza
Trattoria Rana
Il Fantino – have to book
Mon Café 
Selmi22 - fish
I’Infame
Prospero
Market Calle 9 - pizza
Bar Schiavonne - for a panino
Al Grottino - Napoletan food
L'Incontro
Zelmira
Taverna dei Servi
Hostaria La Frasca (funny owner, just take what she gives you)
L’Ervaborio Insalatteria – salad & soup bar
Café Concerto
Osteria Ruggera – Sicilian food
Enogastronomia Bergonzini Giorgio 1963 - gourmet food store
La Smorfia - pizza
Vesuvio - pizza
Osteria Romana - Roman food
Cucina dei Musei
Ristorante Aurora
Da Danilo
Ristorante Europa 92
Fusorari

Gnocco fritto e tigelle (traditional Modenese dish)
Redecocca
Insolito bar
Il Giardinetto

Must go
Mercato Albinelli – famous farmers market; go buy some Parmiggiano Reggiano and other local delicacies  

Ice-cream
Gelatteria Pomposa
Grom

Hosteria Giusti

Hosteria Giusti

Hosteria Giusti - Tortellini in brodo

Hosteria Giusti - Tortellini in brodo

Hosteria Giusti - Pear with zabaione

Hosteria Giusti - Pear with zabaione

Franceschetta58

Franceschetta58

To drink

Note: most places will have some nibbles as well as they do aperitivo
Archer Wine Bar - natural wines
Giusti – for aperitivo, before dinner
La Bicicletta
Spacio delle Carceri
Juta café – very local, in Piazza Pomposa
Café Collegio
Bottega 39
Emmanuelle – lingerie store-turned wine bar; legendary owner
All spots around Piazza Pomposa 

Spacio delle Carceri

Spacio delle Carceri

Emanuelle

Emanuelle

Cafes/snacks

Café de l'Orologio
Menomoka
Latteria 21 

Menomoka

Menomoka

Other things to do

Palazzo dei Musei
Palazzo Ducale - mush arrange visit ahead of time
Fondazione Fotografica Modena – check what exhibits are on and visit
Balsamic vinegar tasting – Villa San Donnino, just outside Modena
Parmiggiano Reggiano tasting - Dairy Caseficio Giansanti
Drive through the hills south of Modena and visit small towns
Enzo Ferrari Museum (both his house in Modena and the Ferrari museum in Maranello)

Palazzo Ducale

Palazzo Ducale

Piazza Grande

Piazza Grande

Villa San Donnino - Aceto Balsamico

Villa San Donnino - Aceto Balsamico

Outside Modena

Go in the hills around Modena to visit the fortified towns and eat delicious food with excellent views at agroturismos (farm to table restaurants)

Visit

Castelvetro di Modena - charming town; walk the path called Via Cimitero to Levizzano Rangone (5km); stunning views of the hills
Levizzano Rangone
Vignola - if you're there during cherry season, try the famous "duroni"
Maranello - only to check out the Ferrari Museum and Fiorano Circuit (from afar)

Eat

Opera 02 - delicious food in a beautifully-set hotel
Il Piccolo Mugnaio - farmhouse, very rustic, great food; book ahead and let them know of any food allergies
Montana - famed Maranello restaurant, full of Ferrari memorabilia
Osteria del Mirasole
Il Grano di Pepe (fish)
Osteria la Fefa
Trattoria la Bolognese

 

View over the hills from Opera02

View over the hills from Opera02

Joy - By Zadie Smith

Joy - By Zadie Smith

A conversation

A conversation